Felix Wolodymyr Chabluk Smith
Scattered fragments of one entity
Initially inspired by a passage in Alain-Fournier's 1913 novel Le Grand Meaulnes, in which the eponymous schoolboy returns from a mysterious journey wearing the silk waistcoat of an 1830s marquis under his school uniform, the collection explores varying expressions of masculinity through dress spanning almost 700 years.
This disparate and sometimes-forgotten costume is rediscovered, layered and spliced, with an emphasis placed on iconic historical silhouettes, created and made modern though restrained and innovative cutting.
Thanks to a large sponsorship from Vanners Silks, the idea of historical neglect and rediscovery is explored through surface design as well as garment form. A Georgian brocade of apple boughs has become withered and mouldy, infested with wasps; a Rococo floral is swamped with weeds and crawling with spiders; and Elizabethan and Victorian jacquards are layered and torn like old wallpaper.
Supported by: The British Fashion Council MA Scholarship, Vanners Silks, Brioni, RiRi – E L Watson Group