Wednesday, May 25, 2011

THE CULT OF TAILORING – The Tommy Nutter Look in expo at the Fashion Textile Museum

Tommy Nutter – Rebel on the Row 

If you ever end up close to the London Bridge underground station and you have some spare time I recommend you go and see this exhibition.
I have always wanted some insight on the british tailoring and suit making and this was the perfect opportunity to get some. 

Starting with the 1960’s Savile Row experienced a revolution and was hit by the ‘youthquake generation’ as it was called. The new wave designers started opening their boutiques and provided men a range of more extrovert , colourful suites and accessories.


In the year 1969 Tommy Nutter opened his store on Savile Row on Valentine’s Day. Nutters of Savile Row it was called and that marked the beginning of a New Era in Tailoring.

‘Tommy Nutter’s personable and stylich attitude to the styling and selling of clothes would link with the exquisite tailoring and sculptural cutting of Sexton in a completely new way. With Sexton cutting to Nutter’s ideas the nascent Nutter style was born. The team were soon joined by the tailors Joe Morgan and Roy Chittleborough who were young and enthusiastic and excited by the new styles coming out of 35a Savile Row ' (Tommy Nutter – Rebel on the Row exhibition booklet at the FTM).

The 70's: cuts , fabrics, details and features

Dressing the Famous – On and Off Stage

Suites worn by Mick Jagger
Two Piece Suits worn by Mick Jagger
In the picture above : Green jacket and trousers/Wool 1974, Yellow double breasted jacket and trousers/Silk 1974, Checked flannel double breasted jacket and trousers/Wool 1973 - all worn by Mick Jagger
'Tommy completely glamorised Savile Row and made it accessible' - Sir Elton John

Show costumes worn by Sir Elton John in his tours

Jacket with trousers,shirt,braces and bowtie/ Silk Moire

 This lilac and black suit is another stage costume designed by Tommy Nutter for Elton John's tour. Multiple coulourways were produced, each with a matching set of accessories.

Two tone suit with shirt, bowtie and braces Cotton

This distinctive half black, half white ensemble was the key look of the 'I'm Still Standing' tour. A whole array of suits were produced , including the reverse of the black and white, all accessorised with matching shoes and straw boaters

Tailcoated jumpsuit with tartan sleeves and tails / Cotton , wool and gold braid

This jumpsuit is one of a series of costumes commissioned by Elton John from Tommy Nutter for his tour of 1984. Jumpsuits were a special request from the singer. This featured a Scots bonnet and red shoes. In Nutter's workrooms, the top balves of the jumpsuit were made by the coatmakers whilst the bottom halves were made by the trouser makers. Note the join at the waist.

Jumpsuit with buttoned chest panel and belt/ Cotton 1984

Suites worn by Ringo Starr

Coat, Jacket and Three Piece Suit worn by Ringo Starr of the Beatles

Black frock coat with original badge / Wool 1969  and Jacket/Wool 1974
A black wool frock coat tips its hat to the Edwardian gentlemen of St. James and Piccadilly, here accessorised with an original 'I Love Dogs' badge as worn by Ringo Starr of the Beatles.

The jacket on the right is a classic Nutter with contrast trim and pockets. This jacket also features the well defined shoulder developed by the house in the early 1970's.

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